Beaches, bars and boys of Beirut and beyond

Paul

This posting has to begin with a tribute, to a Beirut boy (also a Montrealer and my bf's "little" brother), who has been persistent is asking me to mention him in my blog. Paul - this posting is in your honour.

After 11 days of Lebanon, and arriving back in Paris, to a world that feels a little more familiar to me, I want reflect on the sites and sounds of daily life (in the summer) for the young Lebanese. No where have I been, where so many people take the time to enjoy and "celebrate" life on a daily basis.

Upon arriving to Beirut, I expected to go to a family home, be forced to eat dinner for the 2nd time and to relax. Instead, I was immediately taken through a beautiful downtown, lit up by the lights of a mosque, rebuilt city walls, and headlights of BMWs, Mercedes, Range Rovers, Maseratis and Ferraris alike. This was the beginning of lots of sun, eating and drinking - the amount you would consume at an all-inclusive vacation, but the atmosphere continuously changing.

The bars I was fortunate enough to check out:

Main bar at SKYBAR

Night 1 - the bar on top of Virgin Megastore (I already forget what is called). Outdoor patio, with greenery surrounding the edges, and a bachelorette party of sorts, where the bride and groom both attended. I'm not really sure why everyone was calling it a bachelorette to be honest.
Night 2 - SkyBar - the happening place of Beirut that I already mentioned
Night 3 - Le Capital - another rooftop supper lounge - older crowd (25-40)
Night 4 - in a winery for a grande soiree
Night 5 - White - rooftop club that is "known" in Beirut and seems to be either loved or hated by locals. I was so tired the night I was there that I couldn't really form any opinion except for liking the bartenders' shirts

Night 6 - Dragonfly - a small bar on Gemmayze
Night 7 - out in Byblos and nearby restaurant on the sea
Night 8 - El Mandalou - my absolute favourite. It's built in an old movie theatre turned supper club. The clientele is "mature", aka the men are 50+, but the people watching scene is fabulous. I am 100% certain that 75% of the women at this club (aged 20-65, some of whom were undoubtedly escorts) had gone to the salon to get their hair done for their "night on the town"

Night 9 - Centrale - a resto with a bar on top, that is just west of Gemmayze...
I'm sure I missed a night in there, but that gives you a good idea of the numerous spots to go in Beirut.

In terms of beaches, we checked out many... and they are not really "beaches", but rather, beach clubs.
The posh ones include: La Riviera, Le Montagnou, La Plage, Eddi Sands and Orchid... and the not as posh one would be "Pierre and Friends". Note, that out of the 6 we went to, I consider 5 of them to be "posh". This is Lebanon.

Le Montagnou @ Faraya

Sands - just south of Byblos

Last, but obviously not least, are the boys of Beirut. In an effort to be politically correct, I will keep my words to a minimum. Older men, are not in great shape and not particularly charming... younger men aim to impress. They are dark haired, dark eyes, and generally well dressed. The few fair ones are hard to come by, and generally very unique in their physical appearance. Not all, of course, are as courtesy and polite as Paul, although I'm sure some would give him I good run for his money;) I think, however, I got off easy by not wandering off on my own. I was rarely accosted by the everyday "man on the street," which is surprising considering I look nothing like a Lebanese girl. Either that, or maybe it's the lack of plastic surgery and layers of make-up... yes, I did write that - oops! I give them credit though. The women in that country are BEAUTIFUL.

A little bit of Lebanon...

The infamous "they" say Beirut is the Paris of the Middle East.  My aunt, who visited this beautiful land of European and Arabic influence, reminded me of the ominous presence of elegance and charm.  Hotels fit for queens, centuries of architecture that North American cities sought after, but could never have. 


The stories, the photos and the vivid memories both my aunt and my boyfriend had shared, were attempts to creating a certain expectation in my mind. As I stepped off the plane on Wednesday night, I was excited to take it all in, one tabuleh or fattoush salad at a time ;)


The airport is nothing different than any other major city, with line ups to go through customs and porters waiting to take your bags.


Difference # 1 - You can actually buy liquor and cigarettes from the duty free store on your way out of the airport.
Difference # 2 - It is not ethnically diverse - aka "No, I am not Lebanese. I know it's obvious". As I waited in the arrival area, I was approached by several drivers with signs in their hands, clearly with names of English people. 


The downtown core of Beirut is lit up like any city boasting their vibrant nightlife. Amongst it all, is a new mosque, which I was later told I wouldn't be able to go inside of because they only have a small room for women. Clearly this is not meant to be a tourist attraction. 


In my first 4 nights, I've already had a chance to experience the "scene." Included in the outings I have hit up "Skybar," a venue that hosts DJs from all over the world, "Virgin Cafe," a Richard Branson creation, and "Capitol," another rooftop, open air resto/lounge (where we also met 3 hilarious guys; 2 of whom work at the US Embassy in Beirut).




Difference # 3 - You use valet EVERYWHERE; it costs next to nothing.
Difference # 4 - The young people go out frequently, and dressing down is not an option. Women are decked out in the latest fashions, with some of the best shoes I've seen in awhile, everywhere. 


As in many Mediterranean places, beaches are not really public. There are beach "clubs" along the coast that have spectacular pools, drink service at your beach chair, and Euro beats playing throughout the day. The sun is hot, the people are tanned, and sunscreen seems to only be used by the tourists. Did I mention that rose is also popular wine of choice at beaches here?


I still have to experience Beirut by day, but the lounges, bars and beach clubs do well for me. This is the type of daily life that I can manage to deal with. 


Oh ya, and as a sidenote, McDonalds and Burger King do delivery!

A Paris...

A new beginning, of a life I have talked about for a long time, and a blog I have wanted to write for ages!  For everyone that knows me, it is obvious I love a few things: big cities, good (or some may just argue trendy) restos, fashion, traveling and socializing. I figured all those things could be incorporated into my blog title. Alors, bienvenue au "Big City Femme."

I wanted to keep everyone informed of the news and views of Toronto, but between MBA school and a FT job, it never happened. So as I travel back and forth through "my" cities, I will begin to aggregate all my info on amazing places to go to. For now, the focus will be la France!

Finalement, I have arrived in Paris and am trying to get myself settled... for 5 days. It has proven to be a little more difficult to find housing and I am trying to tear myself away from the temptation of sitting in cafes and people watching, and shopping for another 10 pairs of shoes. As my good friend Sara reminded me, "You won't be able to buy much if you bring full suitcases." Well Sara, I guess I'll just be giving lots away to the Parisenne gypsies.

My first meal was a Salade Oceane avec un Perrier. I thought that was quite "French" of me, although I did have the desire to buy about 5 croissants aux beurres instead ;)

My first in-store "walkaround" was at Ted Baker - yes, my favourite UK designer - go figure. I also had my first apartment visit - something that looked like it was out of Alcatraz. A dingy room, with a half torn apart cot, almost no furniture and no lights. All yours for a mere 600 euros, tout compris (all included) per month!

Coline et ses copines - Marie-Lise et Julie

I experienced a little drinking and eating of French food for my first Saturday night here, with some amazing Frenchies. Although I should have tried the tartare du boeuf, I chickened out and had fish... I did try the tartare though. It was yummy and I will definitely have to try it next time... did I mention the glasses of rose?
                    

Those were good too!

So much for a first post. Here's to many more to come!!