Paris restos... je les adore!

I am in constant search for fantastic food in Paris. The irony in that statement is that people think of Paris and they think of amazing baguettes, cheese and wine – all are amazing, but there are definite “Degrees” of “amazingness.”

My favourite purchase before moving to France was a Timeout guide of Food and Drink in Paris. From a girl who would only eat pasta with butter and cheese (but only parmigiano that my aunt bought back, vacuum-packed, from Florence), I became a more refined lady who adores trying new foods and restaurants. I’m sure my Dad would never have guessed this would happen 20 years ago when he would bribe me with $1 to eat a bite of spinach! Regardless, my food tastes have broadened and my first extended stay in Paris, at 16 years old, are probably to thank.

Although I can’t say I’ve tried anything too absure in France yet, like pigs feet, or brains or intestines, I have become a huge fan of boeuf tartare and some of the refined cheeses that I wouldn’t dare touch before.

In an attempt to try new restaurants on a weekly basis, I have managed to do quite a good job at finding some spots that I love, but also branching out and continuing the quest to expand my list.

My favourite place is the only one I’ve eaten at twice – l’Epouvantail – meaning scarecrow in English. It is owned and operated by Dom and his best friend (his name escapes me). They are 2, 30-something French guys, who are the servers at their establishment. They are charming and witty, and most importantly, they know how to get their chefs to cook up some fabulous dishes. A set menu for 24 euro will give you a generous entrée and plat principal. If you want a dessert as well, it’s only 4 euros more. They do some more “Standard French fare”, but they also allow for some diversity and have some Italian and curry inspired dishes. All are fabulous.

A French bistro discovery, called “Chartier”, is a great tourist spot. It is a large, high ceiling, black and white tiled restaurant, where the hustle and bustle resembles that of Paris itself. Although the food is not fabulous, it is good and it is reasonable. Just be aware that although it seems to be a bit of a tourist spot they prefer that you speak French and are “quick” in your decision making skills.

L’Auberge is a fancier French restaurant, just outside the 16^th, that my friend recommended to me. It has exquisite cuisine, that is presented beautifully. The wait staff are lovely and it is definite a spot where tourists would never find or venture to.

My most recent find, and I must say myself, a stellar find, is Hotel d’Amour. Listed as a “fashion restaurant” in my Timeout guide, it is just a trendier French resto in a boutique hotel in the 9^th, not far from Montmartre. The prices are reasonable and the food was super tasty. The fig salad we shared was mouth watering, and my beouf tartare, for 16 euros, had some amazing spices mixed in and came in a generous portion with fries and green salad.

Bon appétit!

Paris Nightlife

Oh la la... the night life in Paris is a huge array of high class clubs, trendy clubs, random cafe bars, and a few dives in between.
Perhaps I've been experiencing too many of these places over the last month or so, which might indicate my lack of posting activity, but I prefer to think that I've been busy building my "social and professional" network.
A couple of lounges I've checked out that are "branche" (aka trendy) in Paris...
Le Magnifique - it doesn't open until 11pm - we arrived at 10:45pm and were the only ones in there... cute little lounge with booths that everyone dances on and in once they've had a few glasses of Moet. It kind of reminded me of China White in London. Drinks run around 15 euros + and be prepared to be denied at the door if you're not with women, or you arrive late without a reservation.
Check out Le Magnifique!
Kong - this is the epitome of Paris clubs b/c the bouncers decide who is "pretty" enough to actually enter. Kong is actually a restaurant and a club on two floors at Pont Neuf. The bar/club area was PACKED at midnight. The layout of the club makes it hard to get to a bar, move around and get upstairs to the washroom, and the vibe is different than Manifique - more trendy, less classy. We had an"encounter" with a group of men who kept buying my girlfriend champagne... we ended up dashing from the club very VERY quickly.
KONG...
CAB - this is a true club, with house music and a cover charge. It is off place du palais du louvre... 20 euro gets you in the door with a stiff drink. The venue is made up of multiple small rooms, with one large dance floor. Apparently it's a tourist destination for nightlife, but I felt like it's the type of place you can go with a large group of people and have a good time!
CAB's website with contact info for guest list

Vienna - Architectural Cosmopolitan

Sitting on the RER B train from CDG all the way to Jouy-en-Josas, I’m reflecting on my 3 day tour – vite fait – in Vienna.

This was my first weekend outside of France since arriving in my apartment in Paris. It was a weekend filled with majestic buildings and mother/daughter bonding time.

Here are just a few of the specatular buildings and tourist sites that Vienna has to offer.

First, and foremost, Viennese people love their sweets. Before noon on the Friday morning that I arrived, people were filling up on massive sundaes, gelatos, coffees with whip cream, the works. My Mom arrived and immediately started talking about the Sacher Tart and the apple strudels and the walnut cakes that I had to try. The stage was set. We checked out 2 of the most renowned cafes in the city. Café Centrale and Demel. Both offered decadent desserts and unique dining ambiances. We also made a late night stop at Café Sacher, at the Hotel Sacher. This “sacher torte” is the most infamous dessert in Vienna. To be honest, it just tastes like a flavoured chocolate cake – it is made with apricot jam and the icing is a rich layer of sticky chocolate (which was the best part).

In terms of the whirlwind of other touristy visits, I recommend the palaces. The first day, in gorgeous 20 degree sun, we visited the Schonbrunn. It was massive. The imperial rooms were fantastic and the gardens were the best of the 3 palaces we saw. My favourite was the walk through the property to the Galleria, which overlooked the back of the palace. The following day we visited Hofburg Palace, which is right near the city centre. It was the home to Empress Sisi, who is apparently very well known in Europe.  I had never heard of her before this trip. She has a fantastic story, which my Mom liked to equate to that of Diana Princess of Wales. Although I don’t really agree with my Mom’s comparison, I would agree that her disaccord with the publicity surrounding royalty is potentially similar to Diana’s point of view. The imperial apartments here were equally stunning to those of Schrunbronn. Both places had the most beautiful chandeliers, which I came to understand, is common around Vienna. The final palace we visited was Belvedere. Also in the city, but a little further than Hofburg, the Belvedere is actually 2 separate palaces, both of which are art museums. There were some amazing pieces and a great exhibit on “sleeping beauties” (or women, or something like that).

Upper Belvedere Palace

The Stattsopera house is also a MUST see. I was fortunate enough to go to the ballet with my Mom. We saw Onegin. Although I don’t think the dancing was as good as the National Ballet of Canada, the venue made up for it. My Mom even went back the following day and saw a part of an opera for 3 euros in the standing room section! Final tourist point that is worth going into is St. Stephan’s Cathedral. The main mass on Sundays at 10:15am is about 2 hours long I think, but we went to a latin service in the basement (during the main German service), that lasted about 45 mins. Either way, German or Latin, we weren’t really following what was going on ;)

Overall comments on the city – it is exquisite for a weekend. I don’t think I could ever live there though. It’s not very dynamic, and although cosmopolitan, it lacks the heart of some cities I’ve been to. I think it’s a bit of a big city, that grew up too quickly.

La belle vie

After a 3 week long roller-coaster, I've learned that big decisions in life, make all the little decisions hard to come by. Coming to Paris, or at least coming to Europe on exchange, became a dream thought over a year ago. Fortunately, it also came at a time when I was lucky enough to have people in my life that supported this dream. Once that "big decision" was made, that I was going to try and go on exchange, the little ones started to roll in, one by one.
Little decisions, I've learned, are really the decisions that make a bigger impact on your life than you ever expected. Did I think I was going to get into my #1 choice for exchange at HEC Paris? Did I know I'd be lucky enough to find an apartment in the middle of a gorgeous area with a great Parisian roommate? Did I have any idea that my company would actually be ok with me taking a LOA? Did I know that in the end, all these decisions were going to lead me to being in Paris this fall, and really starting over again?
My plans for coming to Europe started off a little differently than how they've ended up. I imagined moving here with a job in line, and a partner in hand. I ended up with a fantastic school and a chance to figure out what it is that I'm looking for out of my life - for work, for a lifestyle, in a relationship and in friends.
As my first 3 weeks of actually "living" in Paris, are coming to a close, I have been fortunate to make a lot of ground. I've met fabulous people. I've become acquainted with a new academic system and an actual business class in french. I've spent a full day trying to promote myself to companies in Europe, and gotten a good vibe from a few prospects. I've learned that sometimes, decisions have to made and timing is never ideal. It is hard to be far away from the ones closest to you and have to try and share emotions over a Skype call or email. At the end of each day though, I have to continue to remind myself that everything in life happens for a reason. The emotions need to be felt, things need to be said. Each experience, each day, each decision makes us a little bit stronger, a little bit more aware of ourselves and ultimately, will make our lives become just a little bit clearer... Although there are some days where I feel like I live in a bubble full of fog, I know that the stronger I am to push through it, the clearer the outside will be.
This post isn't really something I was going to share, but I felt I needed to write regardless. I want to thank my friends (and fam) for being the absolute best people ever. Without you, I wouldn't be the confident, assertive individual that I am today, and I probably wouldn't be in Paris, where I am truly in my element. Hopefully, fingers crossed, this experience will bring me one step closer to understanding exactly what I want out of life in the next few years (babysteps, right...). Miss you and love you all!

Beaches, bars and boys of Beirut and beyond

Paul

This posting has to begin with a tribute, to a Beirut boy (also a Montrealer and my bf's "little" brother), who has been persistent is asking me to mention him in my blog. Paul - this posting is in your honour.

After 11 days of Lebanon, and arriving back in Paris, to a world that feels a little more familiar to me, I want reflect on the sites and sounds of daily life (in the summer) for the young Lebanese. No where have I been, where so many people take the time to enjoy and "celebrate" life on a daily basis.

Upon arriving to Beirut, I expected to go to a family home, be forced to eat dinner for the 2nd time and to relax. Instead, I was immediately taken through a beautiful downtown, lit up by the lights of a mosque, rebuilt city walls, and headlights of BMWs, Mercedes, Range Rovers, Maseratis and Ferraris alike. This was the beginning of lots of sun, eating and drinking - the amount you would consume at an all-inclusive vacation, but the atmosphere continuously changing.

The bars I was fortunate enough to check out:

Main bar at SKYBAR

Night 1 - the bar on top of Virgin Megastore (I already forget what is called). Outdoor patio, with greenery surrounding the edges, and a bachelorette party of sorts, where the bride and groom both attended. I'm not really sure why everyone was calling it a bachelorette to be honest.
Night 2 - SkyBar - the happening place of Beirut that I already mentioned
Night 3 - Le Capital - another rooftop supper lounge - older crowd (25-40)
Night 4 - in a winery for a grande soiree
Night 5 - White - rooftop club that is "known" in Beirut and seems to be either loved or hated by locals. I was so tired the night I was there that I couldn't really form any opinion except for liking the bartenders' shirts

Night 6 - Dragonfly - a small bar on Gemmayze
Night 7 - out in Byblos and nearby restaurant on the sea
Night 8 - El Mandalou - my absolute favourite. It's built in an old movie theatre turned supper club. The clientele is "mature", aka the men are 50+, but the people watching scene is fabulous. I am 100% certain that 75% of the women at this club (aged 20-65, some of whom were undoubtedly escorts) had gone to the salon to get their hair done for their "night on the town"

Night 9 - Centrale - a resto with a bar on top, that is just west of Gemmayze...
I'm sure I missed a night in there, but that gives you a good idea of the numerous spots to go in Beirut.

In terms of beaches, we checked out many... and they are not really "beaches", but rather, beach clubs.
The posh ones include: La Riviera, Le Montagnou, La Plage, Eddi Sands and Orchid... and the not as posh one would be "Pierre and Friends". Note, that out of the 6 we went to, I consider 5 of them to be "posh". This is Lebanon.

Le Montagnou @ Faraya

Sands - just south of Byblos

Last, but obviously not least, are the boys of Beirut. In an effort to be politically correct, I will keep my words to a minimum. Older men, are not in great shape and not particularly charming... younger men aim to impress. They are dark haired, dark eyes, and generally well dressed. The few fair ones are hard to come by, and generally very unique in their physical appearance. Not all, of course, are as courtesy and polite as Paul, although I'm sure some would give him I good run for his money;) I think, however, I got off easy by not wandering off on my own. I was rarely accosted by the everyday "man on the street," which is surprising considering I look nothing like a Lebanese girl. Either that, or maybe it's the lack of plastic surgery and layers of make-up... yes, I did write that - oops! I give them credit though. The women in that country are BEAUTIFUL.

A little bit of Lebanon...

The infamous "they" say Beirut is the Paris of the Middle East.  My aunt, who visited this beautiful land of European and Arabic influence, reminded me of the ominous presence of elegance and charm.  Hotels fit for queens, centuries of architecture that North American cities sought after, but could never have. 


The stories, the photos and the vivid memories both my aunt and my boyfriend had shared, were attempts to creating a certain expectation in my mind. As I stepped off the plane on Wednesday night, I was excited to take it all in, one tabuleh or fattoush salad at a time ;)


The airport is nothing different than any other major city, with line ups to go through customs and porters waiting to take your bags.


Difference # 1 - You can actually buy liquor and cigarettes from the duty free store on your way out of the airport.
Difference # 2 - It is not ethnically diverse - aka "No, I am not Lebanese. I know it's obvious". As I waited in the arrival area, I was approached by several drivers with signs in their hands, clearly with names of English people. 


The downtown core of Beirut is lit up like any city boasting their vibrant nightlife. Amongst it all, is a new mosque, which I was later told I wouldn't be able to go inside of because they only have a small room for women. Clearly this is not meant to be a tourist attraction. 


In my first 4 nights, I've already had a chance to experience the "scene." Included in the outings I have hit up "Skybar," a venue that hosts DJs from all over the world, "Virgin Cafe," a Richard Branson creation, and "Capitol," another rooftop, open air resto/lounge (where we also met 3 hilarious guys; 2 of whom work at the US Embassy in Beirut).




Difference # 3 - You use valet EVERYWHERE; it costs next to nothing.
Difference # 4 - The young people go out frequently, and dressing down is not an option. Women are decked out in the latest fashions, with some of the best shoes I've seen in awhile, everywhere. 


As in many Mediterranean places, beaches are not really public. There are beach "clubs" along the coast that have spectacular pools, drink service at your beach chair, and Euro beats playing throughout the day. The sun is hot, the people are tanned, and sunscreen seems to only be used by the tourists. Did I mention that rose is also popular wine of choice at beaches here?


I still have to experience Beirut by day, but the lounges, bars and beach clubs do well for me. This is the type of daily life that I can manage to deal with. 


Oh ya, and as a sidenote, McDonalds and Burger King do delivery!

A Paris...

A new beginning, of a life I have talked about for a long time, and a blog I have wanted to write for ages!  For everyone that knows me, it is obvious I love a few things: big cities, good (or some may just argue trendy) restos, fashion, traveling and socializing. I figured all those things could be incorporated into my blog title. Alors, bienvenue au "Big City Femme."

I wanted to keep everyone informed of the news and views of Toronto, but between MBA school and a FT job, it never happened. So as I travel back and forth through "my" cities, I will begin to aggregate all my info on amazing places to go to. For now, the focus will be la France!

Finalement, I have arrived in Paris and am trying to get myself settled... for 5 days. It has proven to be a little more difficult to find housing and I am trying to tear myself away from the temptation of sitting in cafes and people watching, and shopping for another 10 pairs of shoes. As my good friend Sara reminded me, "You won't be able to buy much if you bring full suitcases." Well Sara, I guess I'll just be giving lots away to the Parisenne gypsies.

My first meal was a Salade Oceane avec un Perrier. I thought that was quite "French" of me, although I did have the desire to buy about 5 croissants aux beurres instead ;)

My first in-store "walkaround" was at Ted Baker - yes, my favourite UK designer - go figure. I also had my first apartment visit - something that looked like it was out of Alcatraz. A dingy room, with a half torn apart cot, almost no furniture and no lights. All yours for a mere 600 euros, tout compris (all included) per month!

Coline et ses copines - Marie-Lise et Julie

I experienced a little drinking and eating of French food for my first Saturday night here, with some amazing Frenchies. Although I should have tried the tartare du boeuf, I chickened out and had fish... I did try the tartare though. It was yummy and I will definitely have to try it next time... did I mention the glasses of rose?
                    

Those were good too!

So much for a first post. Here's to many more to come!!